But particular attention has been paid to the sound of its clicks, to make them both more acoustically appealing and at the same time more audible. The unidirectional returning bezel, for example, has been designed with 120 teeth to allow adjustment to within half a minute, like that of similar diver’s models. In the style typical of Carole Forestier Kasapi, who won the best watchmaker award at the Geneva Watchmaking Grand Prix in 2012, novel approaches have been found for even the most mundane of functions in the Calibre de Cartier Diver.
CARTIER CALIBRE ISO
The Calibre 38 is valued at $6450, materially less than the $7150 of the 42 mm model.The challenge for Cartier’s watchmakers was to produce a diver’s watch that meets all the eight criteria for legibility and resistance required by the ISO standard 6425 with the familiar design codes of the brand. I’d like to hear feedback on this front from both the male and female readers. While still marketed to men, I wonder if Cartier might be seeking out a female audience with the Calibre 38. In general, the Caliber 38 is more classical Cartier in spirit than the Calibre 42, which I can see appealing to some people who appreciate those aspects of Cartier, though there is something about the boldness of the original Calibre that breaks away from past Cartier efforts and is something that I find appealing, beyond my preference for its larger size. (A good design decision, otherwise the aperture would take up too much real estate on this smaller dial, messing up the proportions.) Also, there is no luminous material on the dial or hands, rather, they are classic Cartier blued steel.Īnother dramatic change is the use of a single date aperture at 3 o’clock, rather than the elongated 3 date aperture on the 42. The Roman numbers are uniform in size (no outsize XII as in the 42), and they continue all the way around the dial, not switching “California-style” to index markers below the 9-3 axis. The new design tones down some of the bolder strokes that are present in the 42. The major changes with the Calibre 38 compared with the 42 is with the dial. This gives it the effect of being thick and chunky, not unlike a 40 mm Panerai Luminor compared to a 44 mm model with the same thickness. The thickness is also the same, as you can see in this profile photo: The movement is the same in-house caliber 1904 MC as in the original model, and it is also visible through the sapphire case back. The diameter of the Calibre 38 is reduced 4 mm from the original, which doesn’t sound like much but visually is quite dramatic. I was slightly surprised when I saw a new, smaller version at a retailer recently. Born from the start with a masculine presence and size (42 mm), it has expanded in two directions: complicated with a chronograph, and “hardened” with the excellent diver version. I think of Cartier’s Calibre de Cartier watch as the collection of watches from Cartier, other than the expensive pieces in the Fine Watchmaking family, as being exclusively for men.
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